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The iconic Italian dining experience is neither fancy nor formal. Unlike the French, Italians delight in serving the food of the nonna (grandmother) in environments designed to comfort, not impress. The only Italian nonna whose kitchen I knew was Marcella Hazan, diva of Italian cuisine in America. In the week-long cooking course I took with Marcella, she railed against the foolishness of fusion food and reserved particular scorn for the undercooked, under-flavoured silliness of nouvelle cuisine.

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near M5V 1M5